Poland

My usually quiet neighbors

are having a fight in the hallway–I think it might be about the noise from construction on one of the nearby apartments, but I’m not sure.

Yesterday I didn’t attend rehearsals–there was a schedule change. Instead, I went to the first day of a program of Polish literature adapted into film, which began with Andrzej Wajda’s “Ziemia Obiecana” (Promised Land) (1975), based on the 1898 novel by Wladyslaw Reymont about industrial, bustling, diverse, turn-of the century Łódź.

I loved this movie. I think that for other people who haven’t seen much Polish film, the sweeping-ness and grand-historical-panorama-ness would remind you a lot of Kubrick and Malick.

I also spent some time rereading part of Bram Stoker’s Dracula, which is one of the source texts for the production I’m observing this week. I was reminded that Dracula is so big and dense and repetitive that any production sourcing it has to make some major cuts.

Parallel Octave is having an open session in Baltimore this Sunday, on the poems of Gertrude Stein.

An ant (no doubt inspired by the bugs proliferating elsewhere) just crawled inside my CD/DVD drive. Excuse me.

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Poland, theater

half moon day

It was unseasonably warm today. I refused to not take my jacket. You never know. Most of the Warsovians/iennes were overcompensating; shorts, T-shirts.

First day of observing rehearsals for a big show at a large theater in Warsaw. I’ll be coming in and out all week. The show opens in a few days and they’re in the midst of tech committments–press photographs, fine-tuning of blocking, itd.

Sitting in upholstered red velvet seats, miles away from the stage, listening to the muttering of designers over their tables. It made me think again of the year of freelance ADing, which was the last time I was in such large houses so regularly–or that there were designers–or designer tables. Even though I can’t understand everything they’re saying, just watching how they work is fascinating.

Also the first day of Polish language class at the University of Warsaw’s POLONICUM program. I’m the only person from the US in my group; my classmates are German, Russian, Ukrainian, Korean, and Vietnamese.

Coming home, got lucky with the subway-to-tram connection. Made it from Swiętokrzyska to Namysłowska in ten minutes, and managed to pick up some groceries at the Dworzec Gdański station, during the transfer. I really like these in-station mini-marts, and the food they sell is much healthier than what you’d find in the US. At the larger stops, there are bakeries and fresh fruit/vegetable stores–inside the stations.

The moon outside my apartment building is the kind of half-moon that’s a little more than half.

How do I not know the word for “moon” in Polish yet? I know sun–słonce, but not moon. Excuse me while I consult the greatest online Polish dictionary ever, at my intensive summer program alma mater, the U of Pitt.

[…drumroll]

It’s księżyc.

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Poland, theater

the Polish EU presidency

means that these months are jammed with cultural events. The Warsaw Film Festival is usually in October, as is Wroclaw’s DIALOG theater festival–but KRT (Krakow Theatrical Reminiscences) has been moved to the fall as well, to coincide with the EU presidency term. (It’s usually in the spring.)

There’s no way I’ll be able to see all of this, but I am planning a trip to Wroclaw around October 10th to catch one of the Polish performances in DIALOG, a version of Brothers Karamazov, and also to see Teatr Zar’s latest show. I also expect to see lots of Warsaw Film Festival events, since it’s right here in my home town. But I don’t think I’m going to make it to KRT. Krakow will have to wait for the Joseph Conrad festival in November.

So many festivals–I haven’t even mentioned the European Congress of Culture in Wroclaw, which was days before I was supposed to be back in Wroclaw for the Fulbright orientation, and which was physically un-schedulable for me.

Here in Warsaw, this feels like a Monday morning. I’ve never seen the tram and subway cars as crowded as they were today. Classes start this week at the University of Warsaw, which may be part of it.

This morning, I’m at a cafe on ul. Marszalkowska. I’m working on an article about the theater festival in Legnica that I saw last week–I conducted an interview in Polish and am working with a translator to get some quotes from it. This is simple enough. Translating the entire interview, however, which I still want to do, will be a much more time-consuming process.

Also this week, my own Polish classes start at U of W’s POLONICUM. I have to head over there to buy books today. I’m looking forward to it; taking Polish classes during the Fulbright orientation was really wonderful, and helped me to feel that I was making progress with the language instead of forgetting everything I’d learned in Pittsburgh.

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Uncategorized

Saturday in Praga

It’s quiet this weekend in Praga, where I live, in the sleepy residential neighborhood across the Vistula river in Warsaw. The farmer’s market persists outside my apartment building, despite the weather having turned to fall. The trees here, tall ones, are changing to yellow and red at the edges, but the bulk of their leaves are still green.

Someone in the market with a megaphone or microphone calls out something in Polish, every hour or so, with an intonation and rhythm that sounds like a circus barker or a racetrack announcer. I think he’s telling us to get it while we can–I can’t imagine these outdoor vegetable stands are going to make it all the way through a Warsaw winter.

My next-door neighbor is using the weekend to do some renovations. A hammer, a drill.

Today I ran across the news, dated August 22, 2011, that TJT-SF is closing its doors after this season. This is a theater I had a great deal of interaction with in 2007-2008. I am very sorry to hear this news. I had always hoped that I might collaborate with them again some day.

“In these challenging economic times, we simply cannot raise enough money to continue to produce work at the artistic level that is central to our mission of creating and presenting new Jewish plays.”

– from the announcement of the final season

It’s a difficult time to be making theater in the United States, and a strange time to be an expat in Poland, enjoying the richesse of a culture that so wholeheartedly supports its theater artists.

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What makes Polish theater what it is?

The skies are gray in Warsaw. The trees are starting to turn yellow at the edges.

My roommate is staying with a friend for a few days. She was here two nights ago, however, and we shared dinner and talked about art and dating. She made a kind of raspberry tea with lemons sliced into it, and she gave me more DVDs of Polish theater. Her institute, among other things, documents national artistic production.

The idea of there being a similar institute in the United States that documented national artistic activity–especially theater–is humorous. Between our restrictions on videotaping and our lack of national funding (or national support) for broad-based unprofitable cultural activity, I can’t imagine how we would ever agree that such a thing ought to exist.

There is, of course, the Smithsonian–I’m not saying we don’t have institutions that perform similar functions for the most significant artworks. Of course we document some of our theater. But the Smithsonian certainly doesn’t release a yearly DVD of the best original American theater productions, or a book documenting them. It’s sort of like the “Best American Poetry” series, but for theater, I guess.

I wonder what it would take to make such a thing possible in the US.

One of the things that makes Polish theater so good is the support it receives from its audiences and its national culture. This goes almost without saying, but it surprises me every time I see it. I can’t imagine that I will ever not be surprised by how much people in Poland love theater.

When I asked my Legnica student guide friend if she thought this could be attributed more to religion or to the history of Poland, she voted firmly for the history of Poland. (She was born just late enough to have lived her whole life post-Solidarity.) In her opinion, Polish audiences care about culture because they remember a time when that culture was suppressed, even forbidden.

Beyond this commitment at the level of the culture and the audience, I’ve been trying to think about making a list of the features that often occur in Polish theater, broadly speaking. This is sort of like a DSM-IV for “It might be Polish theater.” Not every production has all these elements, but many of them have more than a few.

I am still trying to unravel where they all come from. Some relate to Grotowski, others to Kantor, others to a strong allegiance to the Catholic church–and others, I think, are harder to trace.

1) A very broad and “theatrical” style of acting (one that LB said had its origins in the Yiddish theater, when he was here in 2009)

2) Candles / matches / onstage fire

3) Singing. Often, live music, too.

4) The presence of something like a Greek chorus

5) The presence of some form of dance or physical theater / movement-based theater

6) A certain lack of attention to elements of technical design (particularly lighting) that would receive more attention in the US. I see this as being parallel to the way in which a printmaking professor we visited a week ago told us that in Poland there was less choice as to artistic materials (in the US, he could buy whatever materials he wanted) but better art being made with fewer resources. Obviously this is changing now, but still, I get the impression that things like lighting are not as significant to these theater artists as things like acting.

7) An adapted text; a text that was not originally designed for theater; a text heavily intervened in or altered by the directors. Sometimes, no text whatsoever. (I am indebted to the writings of K. Cioffi here.)

8 ) The presence of stylized / aggressive / presentational heterosexuality, including a couple of iconic poses that I have seen in numerous productions–most notably, one where two people are on the floor and one character hovers above the other in a kind of push-up pre-sexual position, with their bodies exactly aligned. Feet to feet, heads to heads. It’s odd. It strikes me as being very un-sexual, in some ways, by standards of filmic realism. It’s like an emblem of “There is something sexual here.” The characters almost never seem to go from this to making out or doing anything like that. On the contrary. They often leap out of the position into something else. It’s interesting. It makes me think that, despite the overwhelming influence of American movies all over the world, that contemporary Polish visual depictions of sexuality in theater are primarily derived from some other visual source. One I have not yet identified.

9) An opening gesture of making direct eye contact with the audience, out of character or semi-out of character, before the play begins.

10) An interest in surrealism. I wouldn’t have listed this so prominently before I saw the Festiwal Teatru Nie-Zlego, but now I can see that there are quite a few Polish artists working with this trope. This often seems to be related to a sub-tradition of artists creating theater who are not trained as theater artists–who have a background in visual arts, dance, music, etc.–and conflicts with #13.

11) The “poor object” (Kantor) or “poor theater” (Grotowski) tradition–minimal sets, repurposing junk/trash as part of the production, an aesthetic of an almost empty stage.

12) A lot of control by the directors. On some occasions, the director onstage as a kind of conductor or mastermind–or, when this isn’t possible, the director intervening in the audience interpretation post-show.

13) A very strong influence by the official drama schools of directing and acting. Many of the performers and directors have studied at one of these schools; students (like some of those I met in Legnica) audition again and again until they can get in. A sense that you have to have attended one of these schools to be a proper theater artist. (Conflicts with #10.)

14) An increased interest in using cultural anthropology for theater, or borrowing music, texts, or dance from other cultures (this dates, as far as I can tell, to Grotowski’s “Theatre of Sources” period, but may also have earlier origins). Very little concern (I would almost say no concern) about the ethics of embodying / personifying / representing a culture2 that is not that of the actors or director. On the contrary–the performers seem to feel that they are popularizing and saving material that might be lost.

15) Violence.

16) In some cases, less interest in embodying or becoming a character, and more interest in the actor as individual artist. In some cases.

I think I’m going to leave it here for the moment, but it’s been helpful to make a list. Perhaps this, improved, could be a sort of opening argument for the collection of interviews with Polish theater directors I’m trying to make this year.

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art, quotes, writing

They’re just not what interests me any more.

INTERVIEWER: You once said you based the Wild Things on your elderly, uncouth Jewish relatives. Have you become one yourself?

SENDAK: Apparently I have, and I’m not even a relative. It’s just being Jewish and old age. I’ve become an old person like the old Jews I knew. Sort of bitter, yet not bitter. I would say strangely that this is a good time for me. This is a good time for me to put aside all kinds of things and just to go back what it was like when I fell in love with William Blake and saw the world through his eyes for a minute and was so happy. And that world still exists in spite of us. This is the only time I have ever felt a kind of inner peace.

I mean, it’s great to have a successful book. I’m not so dumb as to not know that is a good thing. But that is not the thing, and that’s why this is a good time. Because the important things – what were considered important to me – are no longer important. They’re not shame-faced, they’re not bad. They’re just not what interests me any more.

Maurice Sendak interviewed in the Globe and Mail. Via Artsjournal. (Happy Rosh Hashanah, everybody.)

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Uncategorized, writing

One of the best reasons to participate in any workshop environment

This is something I’ve been thinking about for awhile now, a few months out of the MFA.

When you’re in a dedicated workshop environment, the opinions of your classmates and teachers will mirror the opinions you’ll hear from editors and readers in the world beyond. You’ll have one to three years of hearing and getting used to those opinions before they are presented to you in the form of faceless one-line letters or brief asides. I’m not talking only about rejection letters here, but all forms of communication with other people about your work. An offhanded comment at a party or in an email, for example.

What this buffer period of listening to people’s opinions means is that these comments have a lot less power to unsettle you. Editor X, or Friend Y, says to you (for example–this is obviously not a comment I ever get!) “Poet, your poems are too short.”

If this is the first time you’ve ever heard this, it’s going to make you feel weird. You may, perhaps, overreact to it, and take immediate steps to double or triple the length of all your poems.

If, however, you’ve had two years of listening to people tell you your poems are too short, you’ve had time to come to terms with it, to evaluate it, and decide whether or not you want to actually do something to change this element of your writing. Maybe you do, and maybe you don’t–but you’re not caught off guard by the comment.

Instead, you can put the comment into context. You have a bit more data on how people tend to respond to your work, and you know if this response is a familiar or an unfamiliar one.

This idea of having more audience response data is especially important, I think, for poets, who have a smaller readership anyway. It’s really useful to have a couple years of people responding to your work to draw on while evaluating commentary and critique you receive in the future.

A workshop is an artificially accelerated form of giving audience response–feedback–to a writer. It’s not for everyone, and it’s not without flaws, but it doesn’t not do this one thing.

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Poland, theater

yesterday’s news

Antepentoday (day before yesterday): drinks with M. at Puzzle, before my last night in Wro.

Pentoday (yesterday): checked out of the culinarily named Cinnamon Hostel on ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego; Wroclaw Glowny; took the train from Wroclaw to Warsaw, during which time I reviewed the miejscownik case (locative) in preparation for the start of Polish classes at the University of Warsaw next week; arrived in Warsaw, mid-afternoon.

Made it from the train station to my apartment in Praga, with two enormous suitcases, in about half an hour (excellent public transit); unpacked; turned around and went back out for a 20:00 performance of chór kobiet’s second piece, MAGNIFICAT, at the Instytut Teatralny.

Wandered home in a slightly rainy night, past a weird display of eight-foot glowing neon plastic tusks in changing colors, springing from the sidewalk near Plac Zbawiciela, in place for a store opening.

I have much more to say about the CK piece, which is about the relationship of Polish women to the figure of Mary in the Catholic religion–but one sound that has stuck with me is a singer beginning the familiar line of “Ave Maria” but cutting it two syllables short, so that the audience only hears “Ave Ma–.”

CK’s work often plays on the idea of musical memory–what we know, what we expect–and presents something askew from our expectations.

Today, a much-needed day of rest or something, after the Fulbright orientation, the trains, the Festiwal in Legnica, and more trains. Lots of emails to be sent, lots of organization details relating to the interviews. I think of AB, a director who once told me when I asked him how to be an assistant director, “Be a stage manager.” He wasn’t entirely correct, but the basic idea–that learning to be organized is the most important skill a director needs–has never left me. The two shows I stage managed were the hardest jobs I have ever had, but I learned more from them than any others.

And now, having brought the organization of myself and everything I’m writing to a state I can leave it in, I’m going to absent myself from work for a bit.

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Poland, theater

return to mleczarnia

Wee’reeee baaaack! Writing in this cafe is like writing in the Great Coffeehouse Time Vortex; I am simultaneously present at Groundworks (both the Cahuenga and the downtown locations), MoonBeans and the first floor of Meyer Library at Stanford, Carma’s and One World in Baltimore, and Ashland’s Key of C.

I have a new resolution for this blog; 100 words a day. I have been writing a lot of articles lately, and trying to get them posted or published in other news venues. This means that the feature of SOS relating to immediate reflections on the experience has suffered. But if I give myself permission to keep it shortish, then I’ll still do it.

So, I’m writing in Mleczarnia, in Wroclaw, eating a heart-shaped gingerbread cookie and staring at an unlit candle. Where to begin…

The Fulbright orientation ended on Saturday morning. During the orientation, I was very performatively engaged, more so than I expected to be–I saw a performance of Prokofiev’s R&J ballet at the Wroclaw opera house, the Pina Bausch 3D film, and two avant-garde puppet theater performances (one about Marlena Dietrich, one based on Racine’s Phedre) by my friend A. Articles in progress on all this except Prokofiev.

In addition to this, we had Polish language study in the morning, lectures on Polish culture and history in the afternoon, tours of Wroclaw and environs on the weekends, and socializing in the evenings. I made many new friends. The Fulbrighters are, as you would expect, a very cool and diverse group. We are now far-flung, from Lodz to Gdansk to Lublin to Szczecin–our trains dispersed this weekend–but I am looking forward to visiting all of them.

After that orientation, I took a train to Legnica, a smaller town in the southwestern Poland region known as Lower Silesia (a region that includes Wroclaw, and that has changed political affiliations many times through history). While there, I saw four performances and a concert as part of the Festiwal Teatru Nie-Zlego (lit. “festival of theater that’s not bad”). What I saw of the festival was characterized by work that has some interest in movement, dance, and music as well as text–but I only saw 2 of the 4 days. Many of the plays incorporated surrealistic elements and humor. I heard audiences laugh more in this festival than I have in any previous Polish theater experience. Articles, yes, in progress.

I saw one of my favorite Polish theaters, Teatr Cinema from Michalowice, who I’ve loved for two years but before this had only seen on video. They performed “Nie mówię tu o miłości” from their repertoire. The title means “We do not speak of love here.” I also saw three new companies (new to me, that is)–Teatr Witkaczego z Zakopanego’s “Bal w operze”–a Lithuanian puppet theater company, Teatr Lėlė z Wilna’s “Pozytywka (Muzikinė Dėżutė)”–and a collaboration by Teatr Dada von Bzdülöw & SzaZa z Gdańska called “Caffe Latte.” On the last night, there was a concert by Warsaw Village Band. Articles in progress, etc., etc. Unfortunately, I did not get to see the performance by the organizing theater, Teatr Modrzejewskiej w Legnicy, but I’m hoping to return for that later this year. Articles…

During the Legnica festival, I had a volunteer guide around town–a college student and Legnica native, K. She and her friends–self-proclaimed “theater freaks”–gave me a sort of Legnica 101. In return, I told them about Julie Taymor and Spider-Man, as well as “Shrek, The Musical.” I think they got the short end of the stick. I really enjoyed connecting with the students. Two of K’s friends are about to begin drama school in Wroclaw, and I’m hoping to stay in touch with this group of people as they conduct their training. I want to also get a perspective on Polish theater as it is taught at the universities. More articles.

In Legnica, I was also able to conduct interviews with three theater people in the town–directors, festival organizers, community organizers, artists–and am working on compiling those.

Night train back to Wroclaw yesterday after Warsaw Village Band, staring out the window and thinking about the large violinesque object with drone strings that the musicians from WVB found in a well, broken, and restored. “Violin” is a really hard word for non-Polish-speakers to say–“skrzypce.” There is a Polish comedy routine in which the comic makes fun of all the different ways to mispronounce it. He ends up saying things like “trzy pizzy” (three pizzas). I learned about this from my super-cool student friends in Legnica. They were incredibly informative. I wish I always had college students to tell me what’s going on.

Today, back in Wroclaw, I had a three-hour-long-interview with a scholar for another article in progress. Different subject. I also bumped into another Fulbrighter, a Wroclawian, in the Empik bookstore. Nice to run into people accidentally. Makes the whole country feel a bit smaller. Starting to have a network of friends.

I will return to Warsaw tomorrow, where I will see chór kobiet’s second piece, “Magnificat,” in the evening.

It’s good to be getting started. I know I’ve been in Poland since July 20, but having my first post-orientation days–and having them be so full of theaters and interviews–is a good feeling. I was here before, but now I’m here here. And there. And everywhere.

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