I know you’re not supposed, selon the Ancient Know-It-All Greeks, to call any man happy until he has passed the limit of his days free from pain, but, you know, if you can’t call me happy after last night’s show, I don’t know who you *can* call happy. Read: I’m happy. It was a wonderful show (Chorea’s ORATORIUM) and I am seeing it again tonight. I am even more impressed than I was before with how Polish theaters work with Greek choruses.

But now I’m back in Warsaw for the Fulbright mid-year meeting. Rainy December morning. The fruit-and-vegetable stands, draped with rain covers, have brought out a row of soggy Santas to supplement the produce. I’m in a cafe on Marszalkowska. This evening I’m meeting J and E for the play, back in Łódź.